Bonne dégustation
Selection #005Bollinger × Lobster
Executive Chef / Junji Koga & Head Chef / Junya Teshima
Drawn Together Across Time and Oceans
An Exquisite Encounter, Served at the Table
One of the reasons Chez Inno in Kyobashi, Tokyo, is regarded as one of Japan’s foremost French restaurants lies in its uncompromising commitment to culinary theory. The Japanese word for cuisine, ‘ryori (料理）’ originates from the idea of “evaluating principle,” and since its founding in 1984, Chez Inno has consistently upheld the fundamental principle that defines classical French gastronomy as it most essential philosophy. Chez Inno’s founder, Akira Inoue, left Japan in 1966 on a one-way ticket to Europe, setting out to train in Switzerland, Germany, Belgium, and France. After returning home, he played a pivotal role in establishing authentic French cuisine in Japan, captivating countless younger chefs with both his cooking and his unique actions and words. Today, that legacy is carried forward by Executive Chef Junji Koga, who supported Mr. Inoue from the restaurant’s earliest days, alongside Head Chef Junya Teshima, a leading culinary figure of the next generation. Among Chez Inno’s many signature dishes, the pairing selected for La Grande Année is ‘Sautéed Lobster with Sauce Américaine.’
Even after a decade of aging, Bollinger La Grande Année 2015 retains a vibrant, youthful vitality. Initial scents reveal aromas of yellow fruits such as apricot and Chinese quince, gradually giving way to peach and honey. Toasted brioche notes emerge next, followed by impressions of semi-dried fruits such as orange peel, leading seamlessly into flavors of caramel and toffee. Lobster and Bollinger share a marriage of true authenticity. The pairing of lobster with Sauce Américaine creates a timeless taste that never fades.
What La Grande Année and the cuisine of Chez Inno share is a belief that “the present exists on faithful inheritance of the predecessors’ values.” In this dish, the key lies in how the sauce’s umami is drawn out to accompany the lobster’s rich umami, by extracting depth from lobster shells, tomatoes, mushrooms, and more. Above all, the use of truffle is the defining element, playing a pivotal role. Through the authentic French techniques passed down across three generations from founder Mr. Inoue, to Executive Chef Koga, and now to Head Chef Teshima, we can continue to savor this unchanging flavor. “La Grande Année, as well, selects only exceptional vintages each year, consistently expressing an unchanging standard of taste. Proteins from the lees undergo autolysis, transforming into amino acids that create umami. Encouraging this process through maturation is where true craftsmanship lies and where defining techniques are passed on. With umami and aging as shared keywords, this encounter is truly a rendezvous. As the temperature rises slightly, the wine’s maturity becomes even more pronounced, making it all the more versatile as a wine for the table,” explains Executive Chef Koga.
"Entrusted to the Sensibilities of the Next Generation
Polishing Recipes Passed Down Through Time"
A notable recent chapter in Chez Inno’s history is the appointment of Junya Teshima as Head Chef. Junji Koga supported founder Akira Inoue from the restaurant’s opening and later served as Executive Chef following Mr. Inoue’s passing in 2021. He then invited Chef Teshima—who was active at hôtel de yoshino in Wakayama at the time—to become his own successor. Founder Akira Inoue was a born leader who nurtured many renowned chefs. He was also active in international scenes including events such as the Tokyo Summit. He was recognized as a “Contemporary Master Craftsman,” and well known as a true legend with striking individuality. Executive Chef Koga, who became the second-generation leader, supported Mr. Inoue from the beginning and went on to mentor many apprentices, earning a reputation as a calm, trusted presence- much like a devoted vice principal. Even today, he continues to guide younger chefs and is deeply respected.
Why, then, did Executive Chef Koga choose Chef Teshima as the next torchbearer? His answer was clear: “Because he is uncompromisingly strict about authentic French style.”
Executive ChefJunji Koga Born in Saga Prefecture, Chef Junji Koga joined Chez Inno in 1984 where he studied in-depth both the spirit and techniques of French cuisine under founder Akira Inoue. Appointed Head Chef in 2006, he has faithfully preserved the traditions of classical French cooking. Now serving as Executive Chef, he continues to present refined, elegant dishes through carefully selected ingredients and impeccable techniques.
When founder Inoue opened Chez Inno in 1984, few in Japan truly understood authentic French cuisine. At the time, to convey the depth and richness of classical sauces required a powerful personality capable of leading others forward. As Japanese diners gradually came to appreciate the essence of French cooking, nurturing talent and refining hospitality became the means of preserving its foundations.
Today, as French cuisine shifts toward fusion and diverges from classical fundamentals, safeguarding the flavor of Chez Inno demands a personality that is unwaveringly faithful to traditional French style. Head Chef Teshima embodies exactly that. Watching him in the kitchen, one is reminded of an authentic samurai wielding a blade, his movements precise and uncompromising.
Bollinger follows a similar path. Founded in Aÿ, the sacred land of Pinot Noir, the foresight of Jacques Bollinger was carried on by Elisabeth Bollinger, who protected the house and its vineyards during wartime, expanded estate holdings afterward, and boldly entered the American market, ultimately securing a major international presence.
Head ChefJunya Teshima Born in Yamanashi Prefecture and after many years of training at Chez Inno, Chef Junya Teshima learned the essence of French cuisine under founder Akira Inoue and Executive Chef Junji Koga. Since 2022, he has served as Head Chef, inheriting tradition while creating refined dishes that highlight the individuality of each ingredient and exploring new forms of expression.
In 1967, Bollinger released Bollinger R.D., an Extra Brut vintage Champagne that introduced an entirely new tasting experience without ever compromising the house’s essential character. Preserving a single style while responding accurately to each era is the pinnacle of true succession. The rendezvous between Sautéed Lobster with Sauce Américaine and Bollinger La Grande Année 2015 is more than a harmony of flavors; it is a resonance of philosophies. The interplay of masterful craftsmanship transcends taste and aroma, speaking directly to not only the palate and nose, but also to the depths of the human spirit, captivating us beyond the five senses.
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Bonne dégustationBollinger × Lobster
Executive Chef / Junji Koga & Head Chef / Junya Teshima
Champagne Bollinger obtains
B Corp certification.
Maison Bollinger obtained B Corp certification, an international certification which represents high standards in terms of social, societal, and environmental performance and it allows us to join a community of businesses who are committed to the ambitious development of these values., Maison Bollinger maintains its ongoing commitment to People, to the Land, and to its Roots as well as our continued efforts towards further progress.