Bonne dégustation

Selection #004Bollinger × Dover Sole

Chef / Junichi Moriyama

A Shared Philosophy between
a Prestigious Champagne
House and Japan’s Finest
French Restaurant

Apicius, located in Tokyo’s Yurakucho district, first opened its doors in 1983. Often described as traditional, classical, and authentic, it is one of Japan’s leading French restraurants, embodying the very essence of what French cuisine should be.
Executive Chef Junichi Moriyama joined Apicius in 1998, became Sous-Chef in 2013, and in June 2024 assumed the role of the restaurant’s fourth Executive Chef.
When asked if he feels the pressure of carrying on not only the legacy of Apicius but also that of Japan’s French culinary tradition itself, he smiles and replies simply, “I’m having fun. While staying true to the essence of French cuisine, particularly the importance of sauces, I also want to express what makes Apicius unique.” This philosophy continues to inspire him as he takes on new challenges, and for him as a chef, there’s nothing more rewarding.

La Grande Année 2015

“There are so many similarities between Maison Bollinger and Apicius,” says Chef Moriyama. “First of all, both are family oriented. Apicius has a very family-like atmosphere, and many of our staff have been with us for decades, which is quite rare in our business.”
Since its founding in 1829, Bollinger has remained a family-owned Maison, devoted to meticulous craftsmanship such as fermentation and ageing in oak barrels.
This dedication is described in The Bollinger Charter, a document that continues to define the spirit of the Maison.
“In terms of taste too, Bollinger refuses to follow temporary trends like ‘light’ or ‘crisp’ wines. Instead, they pursue structure and depth, just like us at Apicius.
It is this approach that makes Bollinger such a gastronomic Champagne, perfectly suited for traditional French cuisine like Apicius.”
Indeed, Bollinger pairs beautifully with Apicius’s dishes, from aperitifs to seafood, poultry, lighter meats, and even robust main courses.
“I also appreciate how Bollinger doesn’t overexpand its portfolio,” he adds. “They remain faithful to their identity, consistent and authentic. That’s another thing we have in common.”

ChefJunichi Moriyama

Profile

After graduating high school, Chef Moriyama began his career at the Phoenix Resort (now Hotel Nichinan Kitago Resort) in his hometown of Miyazaki.
Introduced by an aquaintance, he joined Apicius in 1998, where he steadily accumulated his experience. With a devotion to the art of sauce-making while expressing the distinct style of Apicius, he became Sous-Chef in 2013 and Executive Chef in June 2024.

Junichi Moriyama

The Perfect Pairing for the
Delicate Bubbles of
La Grande Année

Chef Moriyama’s choice of paring for Bollinger La Grande Année 2015 is the ‘Grantined Dover sole with scallop mousse “Sole Bonnefemme”‘.
A timeless classic beloved by gourmets, this dish is rarely seen on modern menus due to the difficulty of sourcing ingredients, the time-intensive preparation, and high cooking skills it requires.
Traditionally, the sole is stuffed, topped with a Hollandaise-style sauce made with egg yolk, white wine, and butter, then gratinéed to perfection.
In Chef Moriyama’s version, the often heavy sauce in classic recipes is brightened with a touch of lemon for a lighter, more elegant balance.
The fish used is the premium Dover sole from one of Europe’s most renowned fisheries, chosen for its firm, refined texture.
Watching the chef in the kitchen, one is struck by his extraordinary precision in whisking the Hollandaise sauce: the foam so fine and delicate that once browned under the salamander, it turns into tiny golden bubbles that gently coat the surface of the fish.

The spetacular presentation is also part of the experience. The dish is brought to the table beneath a silver cloche; when lifted, a wave of aromatic steam of the sauce and the lightly toasted crust rises gracefully into the air.
At that very moment, the La Grande Année 2015 is poured, its toasty aroma intertwining with that of the dish, a prelude to an exquisite sensory harmony.
On the palate, the Champagne’s fine bubbles meet the delicate foam of the Hollandaise sauce, while the perfectly cooked fish melts in graceful layers – a masterful winter pairing that demonstrates the essence of classic gastronomy.
Chef Moriyama left the memorable quote, “People often think of ‘traditional’ or ‘classic’ as something fixed or uniform. But when you look deeper into history, you realize that tradition was built through endless experimentation, and actually has a lot of freedom. That, I think, is the real depth of tradition.”

Yellow gold reflections, evidence of the wine’s maturity, but also of Bollinger’s vinication methods. Initial scents are full of small stone fruits, with notes of Pomme Gris, plum and Mirabelle plum, layered with a touch of honey. Aromas of blackberry, blackcurrant, cherry, and raspberry follow; a medley of red fruits dances with notes of almond. Exotic touches of mango follow, dissolving into tertiary scents of vanilla and a delicate woody aroma. On the palate the wine is plump, generous and enticing, reminiscent of Mirabelle plum jam. Texture and richness define the tasting experience. The finish blends notes of chocolate and citrus fruits, bringing a touch of acidity, lengthened further by hints of schist. A hugely generous wine!

Bonne dégustation

Bollinger × Dover Sole Chef / Junichi Moriyama

Champagne Bollinger obtains
B Corp certification.

Maison Bollinger obtained B Corp certification, an international certification which represents high standards in terms of social, societal, and environmental performance and it allows us to join a community of businesses who are committed to the ambitious development of these values., Maison Bollinger maintains its ongoing commitment to People, to the Land, and to its Roots as well as our continued efforts towards further progress.