Exquisite dishes are crafted by visionary and talented chefs and paired perfectly
with Bollinger champagnes for the ultimate gourmet experiences.
#004 APICIUSGrand Maison
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The Bollinger ListAPICIUS Grand Maison
Guided by Tradition, Inspiring Generations of French Cuisine in Japan
Bearing the name of an ancient Roman gourmet, Apicius (Yurakucho, Tokyo) has been leading French gastronomy in Japan since its founding in 1983.
For over forty years, the grand maison has captivated the world’s foremost connoisseurs of fine cuisine, both from Japan and abroad. Each dish embodies the very soul of classic French cuisine, refined through centuries of tradition.
It would not be an exaggeration to call Apicius a place where one can experience French cuisine that is, in its way, more French than in France — a space that transcends time and place.
“Today, it’s easy to find diverse ingredients in Japan, but when Apicius first opened in the early 1980s, the only vegetables commonly used in French restaurants were carrots, turnips, and celery.
“Back then, people would ask, ‘What’s a zucchini?’ During that time, the owner, chefs, and staff developed every aspect — ingredients, cuisine, and service — entirely from the ground up. What is seen at Apicius today is the culmination of those efforts,” recalls Sommelier Hiroyuki Seino.
One of Apicius’s specialties, ‘Caviar and sea urchin covered with cauliflower cream mousse and consomme jelly,’ brings together star ingredients- caviar, sea urchin, and exquisite consomme in perfect harmony thanks to the delicate supporting role of the cauliflower mousse.
When paired with La Grande Année, the cauliflower reveals notes of white peach, while the champagne unfolds aromas of pear. Their hidden nuances intertwine, opening a new dimension between cuisine and champagne.
Another iconic dish is the ‘Hot consomme soup of turtle (from Ogasawara Island),’ which in many ways symbolizes Apicius itself. Traditionally, consomme was made from sea turtle, though over time, veal head and feet became more common substitutes due to rarity of the sea turtle.
Staying true to its origins, Apicius sources genuine sea turtle from the Ogasawara Islands, where only 135 are caught each year. This commitment reflects the restaurant’s spirit as one of Japan’s greatest French institutions.
The consomme possesses a crystalline purity of spring water rising from the depths of the ocean, while beneath that clarity lies the profound umami and minerality of the sea itself.
Paired with La Grande Année, served slightly warmer to draw out its apricot fruit character, the experience evokes a majestic and deeply moving feeling of watching the sun rise over the open sea.
According to Chef Junichi Moriyama, the ‘Minced Japanese beef tartar steak “semi-cooked” served with butter rice, hash browns and cream sauce’ is a ‘subtractive cuisine,’ a rare concept for a French dish. “Traditional French cuisine tends to take an additive approach by building layers of flavor. But this dish takes the opposite route,” he explains.
“The sauce is just white wine, mustard cream, and a touch of onion, and is accompanied with crispy hash brown potatoes, creating a simple composition which allows the natural essence of the ingredients to shine. That’s why it harmonizes so beautifully with the expressive purity of La Grande Année.”
Bollinger and I …
“Today, many Champagne maisons ferment their still wines in massive stainless-steel tanks, but Bollinger continues to use small oak barrels.
That unshakable commitment is precisely why they gain so much trust,” says Sommelier Seino.
“To carry tradition into the future, one must, of course, adapt to the times. But there are things that must never change. True modernity is built upon that understanding,” adds Chef Moriyama.
Their words resonate, like family. And indeed, “family” is the very essence of the kinship between Bollinger and Apicius.
The Secret Behind The Maison's Lasting Legacy: Family
One of Apicius’s defining features is the spacious kitchen. The restaurant’s first owner believed that “the space where delicious dishes are created” should be given utmost priority.
Within that kitchen, a large team works seamlessly together- eleven chefs, four pâtissiers, and a total staff of 35, many with over a decade of service.
Such scale and longevity are rare in the restaurant industry. “Even our staff meals involve significant preparation. We take turns cooking and always eat together. Working side by side, sharing food makes our team truly like a family,” says Chef Moriyama.
Joining the restaurant in 1998, becoming Sous-Chef in 2013, and appointed Executive Chef in June 2024, Chef Moriyama’s career is inseparable from Apicius’s own family history.
Having spent more time together than with their actual families, and polishing their craftmanship has become the living tradition of Apicius itself.
As Sommelier Seino observes, “That’s exactly where Apicius and Bollinger resonate most deeply. Since its founding in 1829, Bollinger has remained family-owned, adhering faithfully to the principles of the Bollinger Charter. To enjoy Bollinger here at Apicius is more than just pleasure, but to feel the spirit of family tradition.”
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B1F, Sanshi Kaikan Building, 1-9-4 Yurakucho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 100-0006 |
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Since its grand opening in 1983, Apicius has been a guiding presence in French gastronomy in Japan.
Beyond its entrance lies a majestic Art Nouveau interior making it truly an elegant sanctuary that transports guests into a world of refined indulgence.
With uncompromising attention to ingredients and an unwavering respect for classic recipes handed down through generations, Apicius invites you to savor authentic French cuisine, infused with the spirit of each era.
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